Whether you’re cooking burgers on the backyard grill or frying them in your kitchen, the last thing you want is for the patties to shrink so much that they barely cover the buns.
Why Do Burgers Shrink When Cooked?
Ground beef, the USDA says in a page on its website, contains between 56 and 64% water when raw. More fat means more moisture.
When a burger is heated, the proteins in the ground beef denature — in other words, they unwind and tighten. As they tighten, they squeeze out the moisture and fat they were holding, much like wringing out a sponge.
This is why you see juices pooling on your pan when you cook burgers. The more water the meat initially held, the more water it will lose, and the more the patty will shrink.
Higher fat content means more moisture, which in turn could mean more shrinkage. However, the fat itself also renders and contributes to the “juices,” so that’s not the full story. Leaner meat will generally shrink more because it has less fat and moisture to start with.
Higher cooking temperatures also cause the proteins to contract more rapidly and expel more moisture. To go back to the example above, you can think of it like squeezing that sponge harder and faster. This naturally leads to greater shrinkage.
Then there’s cooking time: The longer the meat is cooked, the more moisture it loses. The proteins have more time to contract, and more fat has the chance to render. Overcooking will definitely result in a smaller, drier burger.
How to Keep Burgers From Shrinking
Use 80/20 Ground Beef: My go-to burger meat is 80/20 ground chuck. This cut, which comes from the shoulder area of the cow, isn’t too lean or too fatty. It’s the perfect mix for a juicy, flavorful burger that holds its shape on both the grill and the stovetop.
Shape the Patties Wider Than the Buns: Since burger patties can contract by as much as a quarter during cooking, it’s important to compare the size of your buns with that of your raw patties. Make your patties at least ¼ inch wider than your buns.
This way, even after your burgers shrink, they will still fit nicely on your buns. You have complete control over the final size by shaping them properly before cooking.
Make an Indentation in the Patties: Before seasoning the burger patties with salt and pepper and placing them on the hot grill or pan, use your thumb or your middle fingers to press a small indentation into the center of each patty.
How hard you press matters. Several years ago, Christine Gallary at The Kitchn discovered that a shallow dent gives the best results, and out of personal experience, I agree.
A patty with a center indentation will still shrink, but it won’t puff up as much. It might take a few tries to perfect the size and depth of the indentation, but once you get it right, you won’t have to worry about shrunken burgers anymore.
Cook the Burgers on Medium-High: Some people make the mistake of cooking their burgers on very high heat. This can burn the outside before the inside reaches the right temperature.
Instead, cook your burgers over medium to medium-high heat. A heavy, thick cast iron skillet or a stainless steel frying pan that distributes heat evenly works best.
Use a Meat Thermometer: To check doneness, insert a meat thermometer in the center of the patty. According to the USDA, ground meats are safely cooked at a minimum internal temperature of 160°F (71.1°C), with no resting time required.
Once your burgers hit this temperature, they’re ready to serve. Build your burger and enjoy it hot.